Stocking blank



M. C. MILLER STOCKING BLANK Nov. 16, 1954 5 Sheets-Sheet l Original Filed July 9, 1945 INVENTOR 7%/ 5 M By "'WJ' n/MW 777A TORNEY of? :74 O i Nov. 16, 1954 M. c. MILLER 2,694,306

STOCXING BLANK Original Filed July 9, 1945 5 Sheets-Sheet 2 1 .Hum

n JIFU u UmUMV) INVENTOR.

W94/ 6 M9144/ By J? 7%@ Wp/ X ATTORNEY Nov. 16, 1954 M. c. MILLER sTocKING BLANK 5 Sheets-Sheet 3 Original Filed July 9, 1945 Nov. 16, 1954 M.-. MILLER STOCKING BLANK Original Filed July 9, 1945 (CEC, fk-A,

5 Sheets-Sheet 4 INVENTOR.

A TTOR NEY M. c. MILLER sTocxING BLANK Nov. 16, 1954 5 Sheets-Sheet 5 Original Filed July 9, 1945 /BDDDOO0000000000...000000000000 //0 f566oooooooooooooooooo'ooooooo //0 INVENTOR.

United States PatentOitice 2,694,306 Patented Nov; 16, 1954 STOCKING BLANK Max C. Miller, deceased, late of Cumberland, R. I., by Ida L. Miller, executrix, Cumberland, R. I.

18 Claims. (Cl. 66-187) The present invention relates to improvements in the manufacture of hosiery, and more particularly to a fullfashioned hosiery blank having a novel and improved heel structure. t

Many efforts have been made to produce a fashioned knitted hosiery blank of improved construction to cause the stocking and more particularly the ankle, heel and instep portions to fit more perfectly the human foot, which could be knitted on available fiat full-fashioned type hosiery machines, and which would eliminate certain objectionable features of the standard type fullfashioned hosiery blank with square heel sections and ravel end courses to be joined together by looping to close the heel. The fashioned hosiery blank of the present invention is knitted with true heels, that is, heels which are formed while substantially no knitting is taking place over the instep of the fabric. While heel structures and methods have been devised for knitting combination foot and leg hosiery blanks having true heels which attempt to achieve to a greater or less extent the precise shape and style of the so-called full-fashioned stocking, such attempts have thus far failed to produce a hosiery blank which is simple in construction or of the proper shape, or which it is practical to produce on existing machines Without adding prohibitively to the complication and cost thereof.

It is a principal object of the invention to provide a full-fashioned hosiery blank having a novel and improved heel knitted therein which is shaped and integrated with the leg and foot in such a manner as to provide a finished stocking of accurate fit, neat appearance and exceptional strength and durability.

It is a further object of the invention to provide an improved full-fashioned hosiery blank of this general description which is readily adapted to be produced upon the basic legger type of full-fashioned hosiery machine most generally employed in the art.

ln carrying out the invention, an improved fabric blank is provided which comprises with the ankle and foot sections, left and right hand heel areas formed of a plurality of inwardly tapered gores which are so constructed and so arranged with relation one to another as to provide a heel fabric having the desired relative dimensions of length and width with the lower end thereof rounded, and With the terminal Wale loops of the heel and instep fabrics connected by continued knitting to the foot portion of the blank so that an unbroken selvage edge of the fabric is maintained extending from the leg, around the heel and along the foot section of the blank.

Features of applicants improved heel structure include specifically the construction and arrangement of the heel gores to produce the desired shape and style of heel fabric, the disposition of the gores with respect to one another so that the apex of each successively knitted gore originates in the terminal loop of a different Wale of the fabric7 the construction of the inner or suture edges of the several gores including the arrangement of the gores so that each gore is formed with a long knitted course connecting the terminal Wale loops of the last short course, and the terminal Wale loops left during the knitting of the successively shorter courses of the gore, the use of widened courses which are employed at intervals in the knitting of the heel gores to extend outwardly the selvage edge of the heel, the specific arrangement of the loops forming the widened selvage edges to provide a tight, cleanly formed selvage edge, and the construction two needle widenings.

and arrangement of the left-hand gores with relation to the right-hand gores of the heel fabric.

Another feature of the invention consists in the pro- Vision of a combination full-fashioned type stocking blank which consists of applicants improved heel structure in combination with the foot and leg portions of the blank, in which the heel and foot portions are knitted as a continuation of the leg knitted with a continuous unbroken selvage edge of the fabric extending the entire length of the leg, heel and foot, and in which the initial width of foot fabric produced by knitting the terminal Wale loops of the heel and instep portions is reduced by a substantial number of foot narrowings, and in which the toe is produced by further fabric narrowing operations.

In accordance with the preferred form of the invention, a heel structure is provided which comprises a series of from two to four inwardly tapered knitted heel gores of novel construction which are knitted on groups of heel needles at opposite ends of the needle series while knitting is suspended on the intermediate instep needles on which are supported the terminal Wale instep loops.

In this preferred form of the invention, the heel gores are formed with courses starting with a maximum length in the neighborhood of fifty to sixty needle wales, which length is sufficient to produce a first course of heel fabric of the required width, and is within the capacity of a narrowing point unit of about sixty points which is the longest such unit that can be accommodated on a standard multiple section legger type hosiery machine. The successively knitted courses of the heel gore are shortened progressively outwardly one needle at a time by the laying of yarn to more outwardly disposed needles only in successive courses until in the neighborhod of forty-live heel needles have been added to the inactive series at each end of the instep group. Further in accordance with the preferred form of the invention, the first long course of the next or second gore is formed with its most inward loop placed from 6 to 8 needle indexes outwardly from the innermost loop of the longest course of the preceding gore, andthe first long course of the next succeeding or third gore is located with its most inward loop placed again 6 to 8 needle indexes outwardly from the innermost loop of the preceding gore. During the knitting of the heel courses, the heel yarns are fed outwardly to additional needles in selected courses to form successive In the example above stated, and as shown in Fig. l of the drawings, four such selvage needle widenings will serve to maintain a continuous selvage edge of the fabric from the first to the second and then to the third gore located outwardly with respect to one another as above set forth.

Steps in the operation of a legger-type dat full-fashioned knitting machine to produce a hosiery blank with a shaped heel in accordance with the invention may include knitting series of heel courses upon selected variable groups of needles without resort to needle narrowing or similar loop transfer operations While holding terminal wale loops of intervening instep and heel fabric wales with respect to which no knitting has taken place, and in such manner knitting at each side of the fabric a heel gore with a series of successively shorter courses, thereafter knitting one or more additional heel gores thereto arranged so that the long course forming one side of each gore in the series is employed to connect the terminal loops of heel wales left by the successively shorter courses of the next adjacent gore, and the inner apexes of the several succeeding gores are connected with terminal loops of different wales of the fabric, and at intervals during the knitting of said heel courses adding loops outwardly in selected courses in order to produce the required Width and length of heel fabric with arounded heel and with a continuous selvage edge of said fabric extending from the leg entirely around the heel and thence along the foot portion of the blank, and thereafter knitting a course connecting all of the terminal Wale loops of the fabric including the terminal Wale loops of the instep and adjacent heel fabric Wales with respect to which no knitting has been taking place andthe loops of the previous course of knitting to form the first course A of the foot jportion of the blank.

A full-fashioned machine adapted for knitting my improved hosiery blank together with they steps of` the method of operation of that machine, are fully described and illustrated in my copending application for Letters Patent in the United States Patent. Office,- SerialV No. 603,8391/2, filed July 9, 1945, and'issuedas Ratent No. 2,489,658, dated November 29, 1949, for Manufacture of Knitted Hosiery, of which the present application is atdivision.

The several features of my improved hosiery blank will be readily understood by one skilled in the art from the' following description taken in connection with the accompanying drawings in which:

Fig. l is al diagrammatic view on an enlarged scaleof the left-hand heel of a stocking blank constructed in accordance with the invention;

Fig. 2 is a fragmentary' diagrammatic view showing the loop structure of the three segment left-hand heel of Fig. 1 on a still larger scale;

Fig. 3 is a fragmentary view showing the loop structure produced in accordance with a preferred form of applicants method of forming the suture;

Fig. 4 is a diagrammatic drawing-illustrating the relative dimensions of the foot and ankle of a stocking blank;

Fig. 5 is across-sectional view taken on the line 5-5 of Fig. 4;

Fig. 6 is a cross-sectional view taken on the lineof Fig. 4;

Fig. 7 is a diagrammatic view ofthe lower portion of a stocking blank showing the three gore heelrinV accordance with the invention in its relation to the high splicing and solenarrowings;

Fig. y8 is a diagrammatic view in full lines'of the lower portion of a seamless stocking blank on which is superposcd in dot-and-dash lines, applicants fullfashioned stocking blank;

Fig. 9 is a diagrammatic plan view ofthe toeportion of a stocking blank illustrating a simple method of toe narrowing;

Figs. 10 and 11 are and foot portions of stocking different arrangements of the accordance with the invention;

Fig. 12 isa diagrammatic view of a four segment lefthand heel of a full-fashioned stockingblank;

Fig. 13 is a somewhat fragmentary viewshowing on an enlarged scale the loopfstructure-of a four gore heel such as that illustrated in Fig. 12;

Fig. 14 is a fragmentary drawing on an enlarged scale showing a left heel fabric widening operation in accordance with a preferred form of applicants method in which a true loop is formed on the innerl of the two added needles upon the returnor reversing stroke of the yarn carrier;

Fig. 15 is a fragmentaryy drawing showing the loop structure of a left-handheel selvage widening in accordance with another form of applicants method;

Figs. 16 to 19 inclusive are a series of somewhat diagrammatic views of the needles, the fabric suported thereon, the beard closing narrowing point units, and the body and heel yarn carriers illustrating the method of operation of the. yarn carriers and narrowing point units for the knitting of the first course of the first left and right heel fabric gore in accordance with one form of the invention;

Figs. 20 to 23 inclusive are somewhat diagrammatic views illustrating the fabric, the needles, the left-and right heel beard closing narrowing point units, and a left and rightheel yarn carrier illustrating I.the completion of the kmttlng of one gore and the knitting of the first course of the. next succeeding heel gore in accordance with one form of the invention in which the right-hand heel yarn carrier is moved inwardly in advance of its normal operdiagrammaticviews of the ankle blanks in which somewhat heel gores are shownV 1n ation in order to eliminate the eyelet which would other wiseappear at the anex of the gore suture line-of` the ri ght-hand heel;

Figs. 24 to 26 inclusive arediagrams'showingthe relationships of the needles, heel yarn carriers and loop lift ing narrowing points in a series of positions to illustrate the operationof. these partsv at the start'of the knitting 0f a new heel gore;

Figs. 27 and 28 are` diagrammaic views-illustrating' the relation of the sinkers, dividers and the heel yarn carrier to illustrate a preferred method of formingihqllllf PI.

4 suture edge of the heel gore to leave a full loop on each successively idledI heel needle; and

Fig. 29 shows the several cooperating knitting instrumentalities including the needles, sinkers and dividers in position at the completion of the knitting cycle after the yarn carrier has been traversed again outwardly to the left for the knitting of the next succeeding course.

In accordance with the invention, applicant provides a combination foot andleg full-fashioned hosiery blank having knitted therein a novel and improved shaped heel which is particularly adapted to be produced in accordance4 with applicants method upon a multiple section full-fashioned legger hosiery machine, and with certain improvements and modifications of structure and operation as particularly set forth in applicants copending application above referred to, of which the present application is a division. Such reference to the organization of the machine parts and of the method of operation employed will be madeherein asis believed necessary for a full ,understanding ofthe present invention.

The heel, which forms more particularly the subject matter of the present invention, comprises a plurality of successively knitted gores constructed and arranged with respect to one'another to produce a heel of the desired width and length inwhich all terminal wale loops are `connected byy continued knitting to the foot portion of: the blank, and in which unbroken selvage edges are maintained in the continued knitting of the leg,` heel and. foot.

In the. preferred formv of the invention, a group of three knitted gores. is employed as shown in Fig. 1, designated at a, b and c, although it is contemplated that a series ofl fromy two to four or even more gores can be knitted to produce a heel fabric having the desired characteristics of appearance and shape to fit thehumanfoot. In accordance with the disclosure of Fig. 1, the. segments employed take the form of inwardly. tapered goresofv which. the longest course may be. 5,6v loops in length andof which the shortest course may be. 18 loops in length. in order to provide a sufficient body of fabric. adjacent the selvage edge. In the. form of.l the heelshown in Fig. 1, gores a and 12" are formed.. with widened. courses occurring at intervals to form a widened selvage edge, and the successively knitted gores b and c are preferably locatedsuccessively outwardly each with respect to the preceding, in order to give the heel its characteristic shape and appearance.v It will be understood that the shape of the fabricproduced inaccordance with the invention is flexible within wide limits, and may be readily altered by varying. the amount of the widening at the selvage edge and by altering the number and relative positions of the gores.V In they preferred form of the invention, a heel having a length approximately one and a half times the width and consistingof three gores is employed `substantially as shown in Fig. 1, and provides a most satisfactory form of heel. In this connectionreference may be had to Figs. 4, 5 and 6 ofthe drawings', which disclose a model of the human footV of standard proportions, Fig. 5 being a cross section across the ankle. to illustrate the amount of fabric whichv is employed' inthe forming of the upper end of the heel, and Fig; 6 being a cross section taken across the instep and foot at the point of juncture of the heel therewith to illustrate the somewhat greater amount of fabric required at this point in the knitting of the stocking blank. The difference in the length of outline of Figs. 5 and. 6 indicates that a heel having a length of substantially one and a half times its width is required to, produce a properly fitting stocking.

Further in accordance with the preferred form of the invention, itis contemplated that the several gores will be knitted'in. a substantially similar manner starting-with the long course and proceeding with the knitting'ofV successively shorter courses, the terminal wale loops' left by thel successively shortened courses and the. terminalfwale loops of the last short course being connected bythe first long course of knitting of the next succeeding-gore.- Figs. 7, 10 and 11 illustrate respectively alternateforms of heel in which three, four and five gores respectively are employed in the knitting of theA heel. Fig'. Sillustratesz in solid lines, for purposes ofgcomparison, a` bag-type heel in which no widening of the fabric gores' istemployed, so that an undesirabledownward; dip. is. produced in thefshape of the foot as compared with the preferred shape illustrated in dot-and-dash lines in this figure. The heel knltted in accordance with the invention is a true heel in that little or no fabric is formed across the instep during the knitting of the heel gores, although it is contemplated that an occasional course as, for example, one or several courses following the knitting of each successive gore may be so knitted across the entire width of the fabric in order to avoid marking of the fabrlc through straining of the held instep loops. Further, by including such courses, it will be understood that a different construction of the heel gores wlth relation to one another may be employed without the formingv of objectionable eyelets such as those produced where gores are formed in pairs by the knitting of successively shorter courses for the formation of one gore and successively longer courses for the formatlon of the next succeeding gore to produce the bag heel of Fig. 8. It will be understood that the machine of applicants copending application referred to is well adapted for the knitting of such interposed courses extending across the entire width of the fabric upon completion of the knitting of a right and left gore and prior to the knitting of the next succeeding right and left gore. T he procedure is to render the heel knitting mechanism 1noperative and to put in operation a body carrier which will then knit entirely across the fabric in the manner set forth on the last page and paragraph of the specification for the knitting of the first course of foot fabric. For the knitting of the first course of the next succeeding right and left gore, the heel knitting mechanism is again placed in operation in the manner set forth for the knitting of the first left and right heel gore. As suming that such full length courses are interposed between successive gores, it will be understood that the advantages of the invention may be obtained from knitting any one or more of the gores located with relation to one another and formed with widened selvage edges as above set forth, but starting with the shortest rather than the longest course as here shown, and thereafter knitting successively longer courses adding active needles at the inner or suture edge of the gore.

Certain features of applicants improved heel relate to the construction and arrangement of the loops forming the inner or suture edge of the successively knitted heel gores n which the terminal Wale loops left on inactive needles during the knitting of the successively shorter heel gore courses are subsequently joined to the fabric by the knitting of a long course connecting therewith, and other features relate to the provision of an improved loop structure forming the widened selvage edges of the successively knitted heel gores. In accordance with one form of the invention as shown, for example, in Figs. 1 and 2 of the drawings, the inner or suture edge of each heel gore formed by the juncture of the terminal wale loops of successively shortened heel courses with a following long connecting course is knitted with alternate plain and tucked loops in successive courses. An alternative and, it is believed, preferable form of suture is illustrated in Fig. 3, in which a true loop is formed and is left in the knitting of each successively shortened course of the heel gore to form a less marked suture line. Further details of these constructions will be pointed out in connection with the description of the method of knitting the heel gores.

In accordance with the invention, applicant provides an improved loop structure providing a two-needle widened selvage edge of the heel gores. In each of the two constructions shown in Figs. 14 and l5 of the drawings, the yarn is laid to the needles in such a manner as to cause a loop to be formed upon the inner of the two added needles, and a loop to be formed upon the outel. of the two added needles during the second or reverse course of yarn laying from the widened selvage on the selvage needle by wrapping the yarn around the selvage needle. In one form of the invention shown in Fig. l5, the loop formed on the inner of the two added needles is tucked in the first or widened course and is tucked again together with the second loop formed in the return or reverse course, and a true loop is then formed as the yarn carrier again returns to the selvage adge for the laying of the third course upon the wider group of needles. With this form of selvage, the wales forming the widened fabric area are properly locked into with the fabric at the point of starting, but the tucking of the yarn in the two successive courses upon the inner or first added needle is one cause for the leaving of an undesirable amount of slack yarn, as shown n Fig. 15. In the alternative and preferred construction of Fig. v14, it will be noted that a true loop is formed in the return course of knitting away from the widened selvage edge. As will hereinafter appear in connection with the following description of the several steps of applicants method, this difference in loop structure is effected by causing the first added needle to cast off the widening course yarn kink during the second or reverse course of knitting of the carrier away from the selvage edge. With this form of loop structure shown in Fig. 14 and knitted in accordance with the method hereinafter more fully set forth, an extremely firm and compact fabric selvage edge is achieved at the point of widening.

A further feature of applicants improved fabric blank consists in the construction and arrangement of the knitted fabric with right and left gored heels produced simultaneously on a standard type fiat hosiery machine in which the coulier stroke in eitherdirection cooperates with the needles and associated knitting elements including sinkers and dividers in a different manner for the knitting of the left and right heel courses. In accordance with one form of the invention in which it is proposed to knit the first course of heel fabric simultaneosuly for the formation of both the left and right heels, the first course of knitting of each successive gore in the formation of the right-hand heel, assuming a carrier traverse from left to right, will be formed with the yarn at its starting end intertwined with one or preferably a substantial number of adjacent instep or previously inactive heel course loops in order to close the eyelet which would otherwise be formed at the inner apex of each right-hand heel gore. Further, in accordance with one form of the invention in which the heel gore sutures are formed with alternate loops and tucked loops on the reversing needles, it will be noted that these tucked loops appear for the leftand right-hand heel sutures in staggered alternate courses, as also do the two-needle selvage edge widened courses for the left and right heels. In an alternative form of the invention, the left and right heels are formed with the corresponding courses in the leftI and right heels out of step with one another by one course, the first course of left-hand knitting being one course in advance of the first course of right-hand knitting, this correspondence being maintained during the entire knitting of the heel. Further details of the construction of the heel fabric above mentioned will appear in connection with the following description of the various forms of applicants method of knitting a fabricwith his improved heel.

Further in accordance with the invention, the stocking blank produced is formed with a continuous unbroken selvage edge which extends from the leg or ankle portion of the blank around the entire heel, and joins with the leg and foot. lThe looping operation normally employed for securing together the ravel ends of heel tabs produced in the knitting of the ordinary full-fashioned stocking blank s entirely eliminated, and the operator is enabled to seam around the entire heel edge with a consequent saving in time and improvement in appearance and strength of the completed article. A heel knitted with a series of gores constructed and arranged as herein set forth is curved at its lower end and tends to assume a pouch-like shape so that it fits more accurately the rounded shape of the human foot than the ordinary full-fashioned heel vconstruction normally employed. l

The heel structure of the present invention combines in an improved manner with the leg and foot sections of the blank to form a more perfectly fitting stocking. It will be understood that the rounded heel of the present invention may be finished off when so desired narrowing courses to further enhance the pouchlike shape of the heel, and it is contemplated that in the knitting of the foot section of the blank, further shaping of the foot fabric will take place, being produced by means of foot narrowings which are in accordance with the usual practice except that a substantially larger number of such narrowings have been found` desirable to properly narrow the foot in view of the greater fullness of the heel structureproduced in ac-.

cordance with the present invention. The elimination of the usualv looping operation to close the heel 'and' ageing-soa:-

the substitution of -a continuous searning: operation'. there'- for'v extending" the full .length of.: the l'eg,..heell and; foot fabrics makes possible afcloser and more-accurate shaping' of the blank' and'. particularly the'heel and foot to a predetermined standardv shape..

For the. knitting of the. inwardly-pointed or shaped toe portion of thehosiery'blank', a series of two-needle narrowing. operations mayi bei employed to produce a toeI utilizing the. l'eft' andi rightf narrowing point units which are. employedI alsoyfor the.' leg. narrowings an for closing` the' beards' of theI heel needles during the knitting of the` heel'fabrics .aboveset` forth. Since the use of narrowing.` operations .'ofr this character to' form the shaped toe' of a=. hosiery' blank. iswell known in the art, no further'descriptionof thevk-nitting of the toe is necessary. l

In order that tliei several features` of' construction and arrangement of applicants improved stocking blank having the shapedi'knitt'ed 'heel above described may be more fullyy understood, thev several' steps of applicants method of knitting-'the heellfabric above described on a` Cotton typefull-fashionedlhosiery' machine. as more fully set forth in applieantsfcopending application above referred to, will' be briefly describedas' follows:

In accordance with the method referred to, the shaped heel fabric portions of the-blankl are. produced by knitting on selected groups onl'yof the needles comprising each knitt'ing section,`A these groups being located to ward the outeru ends'f of the needle series, and by adding needles to and subtracting. needles from the groups upon which knitting is' takingE place in accordance with a predetermined'pattern' while theterminal wale loops of the instep portion of the fabric and the terminal Wale loops left by the successively shortened heel courses are held on theI inactive instep and adjacent heel needles as these are added to the' inactive' series;

Further in accordance'withv applicants method, the shaping of the heel-fabrics is effected solely by the control of the heel yarnl carriers to feed yarn to selected numbers of needles' in'rsuccessive courses, and without resort to loop transfer operations' of any description. The heel needles are caused to take yarn and to knit successive heel courseswhile theintervening inactive instep needles and heel' needles added to the inactive series remaininactive with their terminal wale loops held thereon by a novel cooperation of the knitting iustrumentalities of themachine which includes the employment of narrowing.- points as needle beard pressing elements in a knitting cycle of'operation with the needles, the narrowing points being mounted in units of a width equal to the width of heel fabric knitting, and a novel arrangement and mode of operation of cooperating nibbed knockover bits' fory knocking over and positioning the newly formed fabric loops to the backs of the needles, and for holding down the loops held on inactive needles Without injury thereto.

In accordance with applicants method, racking movements are imparted to the narrowing point units, and cooperating adjustments are made in the positions of both the inner and outer carrier stops for the heel carrier needles for the knitting of the successive heel courses including the rapid positioning inwardly of the narrowing point units and inner carrier stops for the knitting of the first long course of each successive gore. A novel system of control of the right and left heel carriers and of the narrowing point units associated therewith is provided to facilitate the simultaneous knitting of right and left heel fabrics on'V a flat full-fashioned type hosiery machine.

Further in accordance with the method employed to produce applicants improved fabric, stepped positioning movements outwardly are imparted to the heel yarn carriers subsequent to the normal yarn laying stroke thereof for effecting periodic two-needle widenings of the fabric selvage, and also for feeding yarn to more outwardly disposed needles at the inner edges of the heel knitting for the formation of the successively shorter courses of the heel gores'.

In a preferred' form of the method employed, the gores comprising successively shortened courses are formed by a single stepped outward racking of the beard closing narrowing. points uponV the knitting of each course accompanied by a two-stepped outward racking of the carrier stops for the carriers forming the heels upon alternate. courses.4 The courses are widened as desired atthevouter ends by movingr thefouter carrier` stops` outwardly to .adda twof needles; at a timey im the knitting of selected courses.

The several steps of the method of`knitting the iin?- proved shaped heel of the combination foot; and. leg full-fashioned hosiery' blank in accordance withf the .presV ent invention" will be described as follows:

As shownv in Fig. 2,. the heel is formed of threev seg:-` ments or gores a, b and c respectively. Segment a: is the rst portion of the heely to be formed,land consists; essentially of a gore in' which the starting course' is of a predetermined width. It is assumed that theillustratedy machine is a 45I gauge machine, andI that' thetiist.y knitted heel course is 56 needles wide; Thisr segment.

or gore is formed one needle narrower` at the end. of'

each course, the yarn of each inwardy strokein accordance.v with onev form of the invention forming' a: doubleloopt on a reversing needle which is always selected, sothat, there is ajack sinker immediatelyadjacent4 and inwardly' thereof. to insure that the-reversingzneedle canihaveyarn' fed to it properly. On the subsequent outward carrier traverse, this reversing needle does not have its beardv closed so that it forms a tuck stitch in the' following All of the remaining needles to which yarny is fed including thef next outwardly adjacent needlesforin'.

loops in the normal manner. During the nextl inward'. traverse of the carrier', yarn is` fed to av reversing needle'4 twoneedles outwardly removed from the-.rst reversing needle,l and again on' the reverse outward stroke of the carrier, the yarn. is tucked on the reversing4 needlewhile.

the remaining outwardly. disposed needles form loops' At intervals during the knitting in the normal manner. of the heel course of, gore a, the fabric is widened outwardly at the selvage edge inorder to impart to thev j finished heel fabric the desired characteristic shape, and' to provide a continuous selvage edge connecting with:

the next succeeding similarly formed outwardly' disposed.

gore b. For widening at' the selvage, the empty needles are addedV two at a time atthe outer end` of thel active: group at recurring, intervals as shown in. the drawing Figs. 1, 14 and 15.

After forming .the first segment or gore a with; for example', 4-'7 successivelyshortened courses in which 47 needles arefrendered successively inoperative atA the inner selvage for thel left-hand wheel, and with four fabric.-

widenings so that, for example, l8 loops arey left'inthe last short course, the second heel' segment or gorey b" is formed, the first or inward traversing course of which goes to a reversing, needle, let us say, the ninth' needlev outwardly from the first reversing needle employed in knitting the first heel' segment', andl thereafter, therfabric gore b is formed in the saine manner as gore a` above described, until knitting has again taken place through 47 successively shortened courses up to the 47th reversingV with 47 needles having been rendered successively inoperative `at the inner selvage or suture edge of the heel fabric, thereby completing the second heel segment with an outward carrier traverse from the 47th needle, empty needles again being added at the outer end of the active group at recurring intervals as indicated in Fig. l of the drawing.

Thereafter the third heel segment or gore c is knitted. Commencing at the outer selvage for the left-hand heel, the traverse goes to a reversing needle which may be taken; as the 17th needle counting. outwardly from the rst reversing needle of the first heel segment or gore a, and thereafter this third segment or gore c is formed in a manner similar to that described for the {irstandl second gores a and b respectively, until the knitting to and from the reversing needles forming progressively shorter courses of the gore has progressed so that there are only, for example, 18 needles active. This completes the knitting of the heel, and the first sole course is now formed, feeding from left to right across the left-hand heel through the instep and then across the right-hand heel which has been knitted simultaneously with theknitting of the left-hand heel.

Figs. 16 to 19 inclusive, illustrate in diagrammatic form a system of carrier control in accordanceI with` the invention for the simultaneous knitting of the first course of left and right heel fabrics during the same coulier stroke of the machine, and for causing the yarn at both inner heel' selvages to be knitted immediately into the instep portion of the fabric held on the inactive instep 4needles and thus to avoid the formation ofv anL objection able eyelet hole particularly in the inner corner of the right-hand heel gore. At the completion of the slur-cock stroke from right to left in the last course of leg fabric prior to the knitting of the heels, the positions of the active yarn carriers will be as shown in Fig. 16. The leading yarn carrier designated at 100 is standing at the outer edge of the left-hand splicing and will be placed in an idle position before the next traverse of the slur-cock. The lerthand splicing carrier 102 is standing at the outer edge of the lett-hand splicing, while the righthand splicing carrier 104 is standing at the inner edge of the right-hand splicing. At the right and left idling positions are the carriers 106 and 108 respectively that are to be used as reinforcing yarn carriers in the following traverse from left to right.

Ber'ore the knitting of the last course is completed, however, the machine is stopped with the needles down and the sinkers retracted, at the knocking-over position. The carrier 106 is now traversed manually to the position shown in dot-and-dash lines in Fig. 17, so that in the following traverse from left to right, the two righthand carriers 104 and 106 lay yarns from the inner edge of the right-hand splicing outward so that this course is in eilect the first course of heel knitting for both the left and right heels. This is the position shown in Fig. 17. The object of manually moving the carrier 106 to the dot-and-dash position of Fig. 17 is to lay a connecting yarn starting preferably several needles inwardly from the edge of the instep portion of the fabric so that it will extend across to the heel knitting needles, and thus avoid the formation of a large eyelet hole which would otherwise appear at the inner selvage of the right-hand heel. Prior to the knitting of the course shown in Fig. 17, the body carrier 100 is moved to an idling position, while the carrier 108 shown idle in Fig. 16 is rendered active, and in the knitting of the course shown in Fig. 17, functions as one of the two left-hand splicing carriers.

Prior to the knitting of the rst heel course of Fig. 17, the machine is conditioned for the knitting of the shaped heel fabrics while the terminal wale loops of the instep fabric are held with no further knitting taking place on the instep needles. The left-hand narrowing point unit 110 and the right-hand narrowing point unit 112 are now moved simultaneously inwardly to the positions shown in Fig. 17 to be used as beard pressers. Other changes in the operating condition of the machine taking place at this time, as set forth in applicants copending application above referred to, include the shifting of the narrowing machine beard pressing cams, shifting of the needle in-andout motion idling cams to active position, setting of the inner carrier stops, and starting of the racking means for the narrowing point spindles and inner carrier stops to start the formation of the iirst heel gore.

The right and left beard closing narrowing point units 110, 112 are racked outwardly simultaneously one needle after the knitting of each successive course. The inner carrier stops are racked outwardly two indexes at a time after the knitting of each alternate course so that the carrier will always stand at reversal over a dividing sinker.

The second course of heel fabric in which no knitting takes place on the instep portion of the blank is knitted as shown in Fig. 18, with the traverse of the slur-cock and heel carrier from right to left. As shown in this gure, the points of the beard pressing narrowing point units 110, 112 are still aligned with the needles whose beards they have just pressed in the formation of this course. It will be noted that the innermost narrowing point 110 of the left-hand series is aligned with the 2 needle so that a tuck stitch was formed in the l or reversing needle having a jack sinker immediately inwardly or to the right thereof. Since there is a dividing sinker immediately inwardly or to the left of the 1' needle forming the right-hand heel, the reversing needle for the right-hand heel will be the 2' needle of that group.

Prior to the formation of the next course, the narrowing point spindle is racked outwardly one index, and the third heel course is then knitted as shown in Fig. 19, the slur-cock and heel carriers being couliered from left to right. Thereafter the heel gore a is formed by continued knitting of successively shortened courses, the 1, 3, "5 etc. needles knitting the left-hand heel acting as reversing needles of that series, and the 2, 4', 6' etc. needles knitting the right-hand heel acting as reversing needles of that series.

At intervals during knitting of the heel fabrics, needles are added at the outer end of the series to knit the widened courses illustrated particularly 1n rigs. 1 and 12.

ln accordance with the preferred form of me invention, a novel method is providedv for varying the length of successively knitted courses of the heel gore by one loop at a time and without tucking to rorm the inner or suture edge thereof on the conventional'Cotton-type fullfashioned hosiery machine having alternating sinkers and dividers and a yarn carrier system yadapted for stopping the traverse of any carrier over a divider only. 'l'he structure of the fabric produced in accordance with this preferred form of the method has been previously described and is illustrated in Fig. 3 of the drawings. The steps of this form of the method for forming the inner or suture edge of the heel gores will be readily understood in connection with Figs. 27, 28, 29 and 3 of the drawings. ln the knitting of the first heel course as shown in Fig. 27, the yarn carrier designated at 154 is stopped at the end of its left to right traverse over divider 156 so that no yarn is fed to the number one needle, and yarn is fed in the normal manner to the number two needle. As shown in Fig. 27, the beards of the active needles of the outwardly disposed series numbered 2, 3, etc. of the group engaged in the knitting of the heel gore have been engaged and pressed by the beard covering narrowing points, while the number one needle is permitted to retain its loop. After the needles have pressed and when the sinkers have been retracted to about the fabric level, the machine is stopped and the yarn carrier 154 is shifted outwardly or to the left two indexes to the position in Fig. 28, where the carrier is shown over the next outwardly disposed divider 158, the yarn leading downwardly from the carrier to the loop of yarn 160 which has been formed on the number two needle. The yarn carrier is now in a position to lay the yarn over the noses of the divider 158 and the next outwardly disposed jack sinker 162 upon the next or reverse coulier stroke from right to left of the yarn carrier 154 so that the yarn from carrier 154 will be caused to be kinked first around the number three needle in the formation of this next course. In the next following course in which traverse ofthe carriers is from left to right, the carrier will stop over the divider 158 so that the terminal loop of said third course will be located on the number four needle, and as the yarn carrier is again transferred two indexes prior to the return stroke, the terminal Wale loop of the next succeeding or fourth heel course Will have its terminal loop on the number ve needle.

Further in accordance with applicants novel method of knitting the shaped heel of a combination foot and leg hosiery blank in accordance with the invention, a novel and improved procedure is employed for the knitting of a first long course of a heel fabric gore following the completion of the last short course of a previous fabric heel gore. In this specific case, where the last knitted course of the previously formed heel gore was knitted on a small group of heel needles toward the outer ends of the needle series with the beard pressing narrowing points racked correspondingly outwardly and with a substantial number of the heel needles inwardly considered adjoining the instep needles having been rendered inactive, the knitting of the iirst long course of the next heel gore requires that a substantial number of the previously idled needles be added to the active group of heel needles inwardly toward the instep portion of the needle series. In order to carry out this operation, it is required to move the beard pressing narrowing point units inwardly a large number of indexes subsequent to the completion of the last short course of the previous gore and prior to the knitting of the rstlong course of the new heel gore. In the preferred form of applicants method, it is proposed to move the left and right heel beard pressing narrowing point units inwardly simultaneously, and to employ the usual point indexing spindle for this purpose. Inasmuch as the operation of the carriers is not similarly symmetrical, `and the knitting of a first course of heel gore fabric during the traverse of the slur-cock from left to right is effective to form a true first course only on the left-hand heel, the rst true heel fabric course for the right-handheel'being formed during the subsequent traverse from right to left, an important step of applicants improved procedure consists in the manipulation of the carrier to cause knitting to take place properly during the knitting of the first whiCh might arise through thepremature moving; in of` the right-,hand heel group; of beard pressing narrowing Points- Specifically, in.,fac.corcl,ance with the. improved procedure here set forth, it isnronosed to.` so. manipulate the Carriers and'. carrierston mechanisms as t0 provide for the knitting Qta first lons.. heel ycnnrseon the righthand. group .O f heel needles. simultaneously with the knitting of thefrst longtcourse onl the .left-hand group f heel needles. during. the traverse. from left to right, and` at the Sametime to` provide such a. connection with the idled inwardly extendingheel andinstep needles as t0, instit@ ,n firm. and tishtlxkntffabric about the inner tip of the gore. andI to avoid the formation of objectionable eyelet holes.

The. details of thaprqcednre fcllowedare Specifically set forth in` a series,ofndiagrammaticV views Figs. to 23 inclusive .Of the draw-ings. In Eig, 2Q, the beard pressing narrowing points areshown in the position assumed at the completion of. theknitting of the last narrowed course of hee1 fabrieformedin theknitting of the first heel gore, the needles having. pri-essedi and drawn down the new 100125, and, the beard, pressingnarrowing points being shown clear of the, needles.4 The innermost narrowing points of the two groups of heel beard pressing narrowing points are shownopposite the 4 8 and 4 8' needles, respectively. For the knittingfof vthenext or first long heel course for the formation of the next succeedinggore, it is proposed to add inactive needles inwardly of the active heel needle series. to include needle 9,;inthe lefthand heel series, which because ofthe location of a jack sinker inwardly thereof will be the first reversing needle of the new series, and on`the right-hand needle seriesl the 10 needle which will be the first reversing needle by virtue of the positionof a jack sinker immediately inwardly thereof.

The first stepof ,this ,operation in, accordance with applicants improved Procedure consistsinthe relocation of the inner vcarrierzstop f for the right-hand, heel. Dui'-, ing the knitting ofthe next to .last course of the precedingl gore in whichthe c ouliet: takeszplace from left to right, the inner carrier. stoptfor-theiright-hand heel carrier is shifted Vinwardli/so thatduring the subsequent traverse fromrighttoleft, yarnpwillbefed to needle` 8'. Fig. 2O shows, the positions; ofrtheparts; for'the completionA ofi they last, short coursetoi heel fabricl in the knitting of) :the first heel goren, lt will' beA noted that the right-hand.y heel carriermlllfll hast-moved inwardly against its stophlocated; as, above-noted; so that: it. stands over the divider between the 6 and..7."needles in a position to feedtyarnto the-8i needleV having a; sinker disposed inwardlyA thereof- Since in. thed knitting of tthis: last short heel course ofthe previous gore. there.are no beard pressing points oppositelthe,8\;.tot48! needles so. that'these needles do not. press,.a oat of yarn4 will` beformed except that with respect tothe last, ofttheiadded needles, that is,.needle'. 8', the` yarnnwillf be locatedtto the back sidey of` the needleibythe Iactioiifofnthe .sinker disposed between the 8', arid-.7-l needles. rlheirnanner. in whichthe yarn is laid as shownin Fig., 20, will bevclear from. a consideration. of Eig. 27, for. example; in .which the yarn is similarly located to theuback sideoft an end needle.

Prior `to thetknittingtof lthen'ext or firstI long heel course of the next` heeltfgore, the two` groups of heel: knitting beard pressingr narrowing-points are. movedrapidly i ii-. wardly. so. that the innermost-points of: the-two series are opposite respectively. to Stand:- Sfineedles as shown` in dotted lines in. Fig. 2l. The. point spindle is then racked one index priorsto.` the. pressingrof the. needle beards, so thaty the. inn'errnostpoiiitsA are. locatedrespectively opposite the-9. and9fineedles, this'outward racking having. the effect of properly-'registering the points with the needles; Figf.\.21 specifically showsthe position of the parts at thetcompletion. offthe rst'long course ofv the new heel goren which theleft-hand heel carrier 102 has completed its traverse from. left-;to.rightfeeding yarn to reversing needle.. 9, Simultaneously the traverse. of the right-hand'` heel` carriei'f104ufrom, left: to right has caused the yarn. to be wrappedk about needle 8.l and the tirst loop to be formed ori-needle 9^. D uring the-knitting of the secondy h'eel course=in the traverse from right to left, thenarrowing point-spindle is again racked-to move the points outwardly-one indexfso thataa. reversing loop is left onithe now inactive-9 needle, and a loop is formed in a normal manner onthe-10 needle'. During this traverse from .right towleft, the right-hand heelcarrier 104 willhave moved vinwardly to. feed-yarnto thel needle:I

lt -is contemplated thatanxahernative procedure may bel followed if `so desirednforthe knitting ofy that pon tion. of the heel whichy includes the knitting of a rst longi course of a left-hand heel gore following the knitting=of the last short vcourse of a` precedingIgore out of step withy the knitting of the first long/course ofthe right-handheel.y gore. The procedure which. it is proposed to follow in this alternativeormof applicautsmethod includes theinward movement of'one narrowingV point unit rand op# eration. of saidunit in theinner position one course in advance of the inward movement and inward-operation of the other narrowingpointunit. This procedure willbe. particularly describedin connection with. diagrammatic Figs. 24, 25 and 2,6tof the drawings, in-which ythe-1 heel needles areindicated asopen circles, and the instep needles areindicated as Vsolid black'disksf The right heel yarncarrier 104 s shownV inf'Fig. 24 at theI inner` end of .its strokeipriorfto the-knitting of the last short courseof the previouslyknit heel gore for theright-` hand heel.v This view shows the last short knitted coursefor the lefthandheel. The yarn laid by the right-handl heel carrier is designated .diagraniatically at 166,` and the Yyarn laid by the .left-hand heel carrier 102fin the knitting of this courseis designated at 168; The beard coveringtnarrowingnpoints cooperating with the needles' knitting the left-hand heel are designated as in previous views at. 100,"and the-beard covering narrowing points' of the group associatedwith-theV needles for the knitting of the right-hand heel are designated at 112. The posi-- tion of the parts' iniFig. 24 is assumed to be that which l wouldbe taken upon the completionfof the knitting of" the last..course when the yarn 'designated by the lines 166 and 168has been formed into loops, and the beard i coveringnarrowing points have again moved away from" Prior-to the knitting of the next course` with the coulier from-left' to right which will be the first the needles.

course inthe knittingy of the new heel gore, the group of narrowingpoints `is moved inwardly so thatv the' innermost point will cover `needle 9, and the left-handy heel` inner carrier stop is adjusted so that during this traverse from left to right in the knittingof this course, the` left-hand heel carrier 102 will stop over a divider located between the Sthand 7th needlesk to feed yarnto the 9th or first reversing needle of the new gore. In

this-form off the method, the narrowing points 112.0f'

the group associated with the needles knitting the righthand heel are permitted to be stepped outwardly again" one index to form one additional short course in the' rightjhand heel. Prior to tlie knitting of the nextsuc-J ceeding course from right to left,`the narrowingpoi'nts 112 of' the right-hand group are shifted inwardly in.a`

similar manner.. The mechanism' for effectingihese shifting movements of' the narrowing points, forming specifically no. part of the invention, is not here specifically described. For a full description of this mechanism, reference may be had tothe disclosure in applicant-s copending application above referred to.

For purposes of illustrationof the method, it may. be

stated that; the narrowing pointisupporting bar for supporting the groupv ofv vnarrowing points 110 associated with the left-hand heel :needle gi'oupwis moved-inwardly away from. its normal contact withfthe stop abutrnjentr forming part of the left-hand narrowing-point control nut mounted onthe. narrowing machine racking spindle,;ari :ly i is then latched in l` its. inner Vposition byr `means of a 'i' from right-to left, the-inarrowngpoint spndleisirotatedf" Prior to the knitting of to shift theinarrowing spindle nuts-rapidly' inwardly, sowy that the innermostnarrowing point 1124 of thev right-hand@ series isppositioned.' over the 9. needle, andv `the spindle# is then racked oner index. outwardly. so that' the rstw. needle covered b yl the'innermost narrowing-.point of' the. i At the same 1 time the latch abovel referred toiholdingthey pointsffll right-handV series will be.- the: 10'y needle.'

`13 of the left-hand series is released so that these points may be similarly shifted outwardly one index to uncover needle 9.

Fig. 26 shows the position at the completion of the knitting of the second course in the formation of the new heel gore in which two courses of heel fabric forming the new gore have been knitted as to the left-hand heel, and one such course has been knitted in the formation of the right-hand heel.

The procedure above described may be employed also for the knitting of the first course ofthe first gore .for the left-hand heel one course in advance of the knitting of the first course of the first gore for the right-hand heel. For the knitting of the first course for the lefthand heel the left narrowing point unit is brought in while the right-hand unit remains in an inoperative position beyond the active needle range.

The invention having been described, what is claimed is:

l. A stocking blank comprising an ankle portion, a foot portion and rightand left-hand heel areas, each such arca comprising series of short courses forming a number of inwardly tapered gores, the series of courses forming each gore being successively shortened, andalternate courses of the series being formed with the inner most loop thereof tucked over the innermost terminating loop of the next preceding course which forms also the terminating loop of the adjacent next inwardly considered wale.

2. A stocking blank comprising an ankle portion, a foot portion and rightand left-hand heel areas, each such area comprising series of short knitted courses forming a number of inwardly tapered gores, the series of courses forming each gore being successively shortened, and alternate courses of the series being formed with the innermost loop thereof tucked over the innermost terminating loop of the next preceding course which forms also the terminating loop of the adjacent next inwardly considered wale, and certain of said courses having loops added at the outer selvages to form heel fabric areas of substantially even width.

3. A stocking blank comprising an ankle portion, a foot portion and rightand left-hand heel. areas, each such area comprising series of short knitted courses forming a number of inwardly tapered gores, and with the first course of each successively knitted gore having its innermost loop starting on a wale other than .the wale which supports the innermost loop of any preceding gore.

4. A stocking blank comprising an ankle portion, a foot portion and rightand left-hand heel areas, each such area comprising series of short courses forming. a number of inwardly tapered gores, courses of the series forming each gore being successively shortened so that the innermost loop of each successive course forms the terminating loop of the next adjacent outwardly considered wale and certain of said courses having loops added at the outer selvages to form heel fabric areas of substantially even width, and with the longest course of each successively knitted gore having its innermost loop starting on a Wale other than the wale which supports the innermost loop of any preceding gore. a

5. A stocking blank comprising an ankle portion, a foot portion and rightand left-hand heel areas, each such area comprising a number of inwardly tapered gores constructed and arranged so that the innermo st loop of the longest course of each successively knitted gore forms the terminating loop of a Wale located outwardly of the fabric from the supporting wale for the innermost loop of any preceding gore.

6. A stocking blank proportioned to be produced on a multiple section legger type full-fashioned hosiery knitting machine, comprising an ankle portion, a foot portion and rightand left-hand heel areas, each area comprising a series of short knitted courses arranged to form three inwardly tapered gores, the first-of said gores including an initial long course approximating 50 to 6 0 loops, series of courses shortened successively at their inner ends by one loop each, and with certain of said courses having loops added at the selvage to a total number in the order of eight to twelve loops to produce a widened selvage edge of the gore, and a last short course of a length in the order of 16 to 20 loops, the second gore being similarly constructed and having an initial course of a length in the order of 50 to 60 loops extending inwardly from the selvage edge of the heel area, and with the innermost loop thereof terminating in a Wale outwardly disposed from the innermost loop of said first gore, and the third gore consisting of an initial course of a length in the order of 50 to 60 loops extending inwardly from the selvage edge of the heel areaand with the innermost loop thereof terminating in a Wale outwardly disposed from the innermost loop of said second gore, and a series of courses shortened successively by one course each to form the rounded lower end of the heel, and a first foot course extending from one heel selvage edge to the other heel selvage edge.

7. A stocking blank proportioned to be produced on a multiple section legger type full-fashioned hosiery knitting machine, comprising an ankle portion, a foot portion and rightand left-hand heel areas, each area comprising a series of short knitted courses arranged to form from two to four inwardly tapered gores, each gore consisting of an initial course of a length in the order of from 50 to 60 loops, and a series of courses successively shortened by one loop each at their inner ends and with a last short course of a length from 16 to 20 loops, said first and intermediate gores having loops added at the selvage edge thereof and with the first course of each next succeeding gore extending inwardly from said selvage edge to produce a heel fabric area of substantially even Width and substantially increased length.

8. A stocking blank proportioned to be produced on a multiple section legger type full-fashioned hosiery knitting machine, comprising an ankle portion, a foot portion and rightand vleft-hand heel areas, each area comprising a series of short knitted courses arranged to form from two to four inwardly tapered gores, each gore consisting of an initial course of a length in the order of from 50 to 60 loops, and a series of courses successively shortened by one loop each at their inner ends and with a last short course of a length from 16 to 20 loops, said first and intermediate gores having loops added at the selvage edge thereof to a total number of eight to twelve loops, and with the first course of each succeeding gore extending inwardly from the selvage edge and terminating in a wale disposed outwardly from the innermost loop of the preceding gore by a number of loops substantially equal to the loops added for widening in the knitting of the preceding gore, and an initial long course of foot fabric connecting all of the terminal loops of the heel and instep fabric extending from one selvage to the other heel selvage.

9. A stocking blank comprising with the ankle and foot portions, leftand right-hand heel areas each comprising a plurality of inwardly tapered gores, each gore knitted with a long course forming one side thereof and with a short course and a series of terminal wale loops left by the successively shorter courses of the gore forming the other side thereof, and having the gores arranged with relation to one another in each instance with the long course side of one gore joining with the short course and terminal wale loop side of another gore, with the apex of each successively knitted gore originating in a loop of a different wale of the fabric and with groups of successively knitted courses forming said gores widened outwardly in steps to provide substantially even width heel fabric.

10. A stocking blank comprising with the ankle and foot portion, leftand right-hand heel areas, each cornprising a plurality of inwardly tapered gores, each gore knitted with a long course forming one side thereof and with a short course and a series of terminal Wale loops left by the successively shorter courses of the gore forming the other side thereof, and having the gores arranged with relation to one another in each instance with the long course side of one gore joining with the short course and terminal wale loop side of the next succeeding gore, with groups of successively knitted courses forming said gores widened outwardly in successive steps and with the remaining courses forming the bottom portion of a heel area knitted outwardly to the same extent to a saine outer selvage wale to form substantially even width heel fabric of substantially greater length than width and rounded at the heel end, and having all of the terminal wale loops of the heel and ankle areas connected by a rst course of foot fabric.

1l. A stocking blank comprising with the ankle and foot portions, leftand right-hand heel areas comprising a plurality of inwardly tapered gores with the apex of each successively knitted gore originating in a loop of a emanano -15 dierent tWale of :the fabric Iand -with the .fabric rcourses forming said `gores widened byadding wa'le loopsA totform a shaped heel ,fabric havinga continuous .selvage Iedge joining the foot portion ofathe fabricblank.

12. VA stocking blanktcomprising `an zanklesportion, a foot portion and .rightiand deft-.hand heel areas, each such area ,including a :series of .successively shortened courses forming aninwardly taperedzgore, the series of courses forming said gore being shortened -by one vloop in each successive course, alternate :coursesf having at their innerfends reversingloops `comprising a'single full loop from which'theyarn `iszdirectlyconnected to form a first fullloop of the nextsucceedingcourse uponthe adjacent wale Youtwardly .disposed from .said reversing loop.

13. A stocking blank vcomprising an ankle portion,v a foot Yportion and .right- .and ,left-hand heel areas, .each such ,area including ra-se'ries of successively shortened courses terminatingin a last short course forming an inwardly tapered lgore lknitted'while substantially no knitting takes place .upon 'the .instep portion `of the `fabric, the series Yof courses'forming said gore being shortened by one loop in eachsucces'sive course, alternate ycourses having at their inner yends'.reversingloops comprising a single full loopfrom .which the lyarn isdirectly connected to form a first full .loopof the-next succeeding course upon `the adjacent wale `outwardly disposed from said reversing loop, and subsequently v-knitted vcourse fabric connecting the loops 'of said vshortcourseand terminal wale loops of Vsaid gore:to formwhe lsuture.'

14. A stocking blank :comprisingf1an Vanklefport-ion, a foot p ortion and rightand left-hand heel areasfeach such area Acomprising 'a series of vsuccessively V`shortened courses terminating in .a last short course forming a plurality of inwardly tapered gores, the series of courses forming `veach 4gore being. shortened bylone loop in each successive course,. alternate :courses @having at their Tinner ends -reversing loops comprising a singlefull-loop from which the yarn is:directly-connected tofforrn fa V"first v=full loopo'fithe next succeedingrcourselupon-the'adjacent wale outwardly disposed `from'said reversing loop, ,and relatively ,long course knitting .connecting lthe floops'- of the last :short course and terminal wale loopsrof the' -suc cessively shortened coursesbf yeach :successive ygore'ito form the sutures.

15. Agstocking .blank-comprising anaankleportiom a foot portion and rightand'left-hand "heel areas, :each such area including a series of rsuccessively Vshortened courses .forming la plurality .of ;inwardly' itapered gores, the series of .courses :forming :ssaidlgores `being-shortene`d by 4one loop in Aeach :successive fcourse, alternate courses having `at `their inner ends-:reversing loops comprising .a single full-loop from whichztheyarnfis'directly'connected to orma-first fullyloop -ofv.the`;-next succeeding course upon :the adjacent,Wale-outwardly disposed from. said reversing loop, certain :of said egores .fhavinvg "loops added at E16 thegselvage edgerthereof, and each successivegore `having the firstllong course thereofextending inwardly-fromsaid selvlage edge to form a continuous selvage edge about the hee :16. vA stocking kblank :comprising an ankle portion, a foot portion and rightfand left-hand heel areas, each comprising a number of inwardly tapered gores, at Veach side of :the blank, withthe first course of the rst heel gore on one side of the blank being formed one course earlierthanf'theirstcourse 'of theirst gore on the other side,.both areas togetherformingsubstantially even width hcelfabricwithitherinnermostrloopof each of certain of the succeeding heel coursesformingthe terminating loop of an adjacentoutwardly considered wale, with additional loops, formed at intervals, at the outerselvages of the heel areas.

17. A stocking blankcomprising an ankle portion, a footzportion and rightand lefthand heel areas, each comprising a number of tapered gores, the innermost loop of certain' succeeding courses formingv'a terminating loop ofsuch courses, these loops hayingrdrawn throughthem the loops ofthe iirst sole course, with the=relatively longest course, of a gore on vone side, occurring in the same course as the relatively shortest course on the other side, withra float of 4yarnlformed at one side, between the short course of one gore and the long course of an adjoining gore.

.18. A-stockingblankcomprising an ankle portion, heel areas and a foot portion, all fully formed of integrally connected fabric, with-no-appreciable instep fabric between.thestartingiandlending courses of the heel areas, said areas beingrformedof successively knitted inwardly tapered gores, and 'with-groups of successively knitted courses forming saidlgores widened outwardly in successive steps and with the remaining courses forming the bottom portion of a heel area lknitted outwardly to the same extent to .a sarneouter selvage Wale to form substantially-even width 'heel fabric of substantially greater length than widthand'rounded at the heell end, and havmgall of the terminal wale loops oftheheel and ankle areas connected by altirst course of foot fabric.

'ReferencesiGited in the leof this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS Germany June 18, 1921 

